Nothings Says Glamour Like the Venice-Simplon-Orient Express

Korena Bolding / Virtuoso

All aboard. Morning-after viennoiseries. Onboard revelry.

Korena Bolding Korena Bolding Korena Bolding

A Champagne-soaked, sequin-spangled train journey from Paris to the French Alps.

I’ve always loved train travel – speeding from Tokyo to Kyoto on the Shinkansen, drinking rosé on the Eurostar between London and Paris – so last winter I jumped at the chance to preview the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express’ new Paris-to-French Alps route, which launches in December 2023. The legendary train, with 17 restored navy-and-gold carriages, many from its 1920s and ’30s heyday, celebrates slow travel in the most glamourous way possible.

At Paris’ Gare de l’Est, a cadre of stewards dressed in perfectly tailored, all-black uniforms took my bags, while another escorted me to my cabin. The plan was to pull out of the station and idle outside Paris for dinner, drinks, and dancing, before departing for the French Alps overnight. As I settled in, Champagne in a monogrammed crystal flute appeared in my hand – a sign of things to come.

Time on the VSOE revolves around bar car 3674, where a three-piece Italian band performed next to the grand piano, which doubled as a tabletop for a giant display of Petrossian caviar on ice. The dress code called for black tie, a fitting complement to the car’s rich blue-and-gold interior, and passengers turned the space into a sea of sequins, beads, and feathers, clinking martini glasses and singing along to 1950s classics.

Korena Bolding

Chef Jean Imbert served a multicourse feast inspired by his favorite French Christmas dinner in the stunning L’Oriental dining car, before it was back to 3674 for more dancing and endless glasses of Perrier-Jouët. It quickly became clear that nobody boards the VSOE to sleep – Victor, the barman, told me they don’t close up until the last guest leaves – but I managed to sneak away to my cabin, which had been transformed into a cozy bedroom, where a patterned kimono and monogrammed slippers awaited me.

The next morning I woke up in a snow globe, as the VSOE rolled through the mountains. My steward deftly transformed my cabin back into a sitting room and delivered a spread of coffee, viennoiseries, and Bordier butter that I’m still dreaming about. I watched through my window as we pulled into Moûtiers. I can’t think of a better wintertime arrival in the Alps.

Back home, weeks later, my phone dinged with texts from friends and family who’d received their surprise from my trip – letters I’d written on gold-foil-stamped stationery on board, postmarked from Italy with a special VSOE stamp. It’s those little details that made my journey. Sometimes, like a surprise snail-mail delivery, the best moments in travel arrive when you’re least expecting them.

Custom VSOE stationery.

Korena Bolding

FYI

"Lay out your pajamas in your cabin before you go to dinner. Stewards stow your luggage on a high shelf when they transform your room from banquette to bed, and it can be a bit tricky to reach – especially after a few Choo Choo martinis."

– Korena Bolding

A French cheese course to write home about.

Korena Bolding

Korena Bolding

All Aboard

Belmond

Belmond’s new Paris-to-French Alps overnight route launches on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express in December, whisking travelers from the City of Light to Albertville, Moûtiers, or Bourg-Saint-Maurice, where they can transfer to the region’s famed ski resorts. The one-way trip includes cocktails, dinner, breakfast, brunch, and accommodations in cozy cabins or one of eight opulent new suites. Departures: December 15 and 21.

Orient Express’ La Dolce Vita

Reservations open this year for journeys on Orient Express’ La Dolce Vita, which debuts six new Italian itineraries at the end of 2024 – a three-day Sicily jaunt, for example, travels from Palermo to Agrigento, Taormina, and Mount Etna. While much of the trip is geared toward outdoor exploration, overnights are spent on board, and passengers can plan for an evening in the modernist-inspired dining car. Departure dates to be announced.

Belmond Peru

Passengers on Belmond’s three-hour trip from Cuzco to Machu Picchu (and the reverse) aboard the Hiram Bingham admire Andes views and enjoy entertainment and a meal on board before visiting the Inca citadel on a guided tour. Although the trip doesn’t include an overnight stay on the train, travelers can extend their journey by checking into Belmond’s 31-room Sanctuary Lodge near the ruins. Departures: Multiple dates through 2024.

Rocky Mountaineer

Rocky Mountaineer’s two-day Denver-to-Moab journey, one of many options from the company in Colorado and Utah, crosses the Continental Divide. There’s time for taking in the landscapes by rail, plus sightseeing in the Rockies; a midtrip hotel stay in Glenwood Springs, Colorado; and stops near Canyonlands and Arches national parks. Departures: Multiple dates, September 10, 2023, through October 21, 2024.

Your Champagne-soaked, sequin-spangled journey awaits....

Schedule a call

I help passionate travelers plan food, wine, and active adventures to unique destinations across the globe.